 Here are instructions for converting an Atari Trackball for use on an Apple
 //c or //e with a mousecard.
 
 Materials needed :
 
 - Atari Trackball CX-80 ($4.97 at KayBee Toys)
 - 9 pin male D type connector               \
 - Hood for above                             |
 - (1) 74LS04  (TTL hex inverter chip)        |
 - 14 pin socket for above                    |-- Avail. at Radio Shack
 - some small guage wire                      |
 - soldering iron                             |
 - wire strippers                            /
 
 Here we go :
 
 - cut the plug off the end of the trackball's cord as near to the plug as you
   can.  Now strip about .75" of the outer insulation to expose the colored
   wires inside.  Strip a little bit from the end of each wire so you can
   solder the ends to the terminals of the 9 pin connector.
 
 - Solder the colored wires to the terminals of the 9 pin connector as so :
 
      pin 1 : solder this to pin 3 (the grey wire)
      pin 2 : Purple
      pin 3 : Grey (this must also be soldered to pin 1)
      pin 4 : Brown
      pin 5 : Red
      pin 6 : unconnected
      pin 7 : Blue
      pin 8 : Orange
      pin 9 : Yellow
 
 Make sure none of the pins are shorting another and then put the hood on the
 connector.
 
 - Now carefully peel each of the four rubber feet off of the bottom of the
   trackball case to expose the screws.  Make sure you put the feet gummy side
   up in a safe place where they won't become stuck to anything.
 
 - Now unscrew the screws (small phillips head screwdriver) and lift the top
   of the case off the bottom.
 
 - carefully snip the wire off of the yellow, orange, and red wires as close
   to the metal connector as possible.
 
 - Solder extra wire to each of the three connectors you just cut the colored
   wire from.  Note that each connector is labeled by its color on the circuit
   board.  These will be referred to as <color> connector while the wires
   themselves will be referred to as <color> wire.
 
 - Connect the yellow connector to pin 11 of the 74LS04.
 - Connect pins 9 and 10 of the 74LS04 together.
 - Connect the yellow wire to pin 8 of the 74LS04.
 
 - Connect the orange connector to pin 13 of the 74LS04.
 - Connect the orange wire to pin 12 of the 74LS04.
 
 - Connect the red connector to pin 3 of the 74LS04.
 - Connect pins 4 and 5 of the 74LS04.
 - Connect the red wire to pin 6 of the 74LS04.
 
 - Looking at the circuit board of the trackball with the connectors facing
   you, solder a wire to the solder pad immediately to the right of "A2010"
   right behind the blue and violet connectors.  Using an ohmmeter, this pad
   should be connected to the violet connecter.  This is the +5 volt supply.
   Now solder the other end of the wire to pin 14 of the 74LS04.  Check chart
   below if you need help finding the +5 volt pad.
 
 ____________________
                     \
 _____________________O       <-- solder to this pad for +5
                       \
                         \
 _____________________O   \   <-- don't solder to this pad
                      |    |
                      |    |
                      |    |
                      |    |
               [ ]   [ ]  [ ]
              grey  blue  violet
 
 
 - Now, looking at the left edge of the circuit board, there is a foil pattern
   along the left edge of the board.  Right above the crosshatch pattern in
   the lower lefthand corner is a single solder pad.  Solder a wire to this.
   Now solder the other end of the wire to pin 7 of the 74LS04.  This is the
   ground connection.  See chart below if you are having problems :
 
 |
 |
 |-------O     <-- solder to this solder pad
 |
 |---------
 |  ----------|
 |---------   |-------
 |  ----------|
 |---------
 |
 |________________________
 
 - This should be all the electrical connections needed.
 
 - I found that the best place to stuff the chip and its wires is under the
   righthand edge of the board right under the cross hatch pattern in the
   lower righthand corner.  This places it between the housing for the TB/JS
   switch and the plastic support for the circuit board where it should wander
   and interfere with any of the mechanisms.
 
 - Once this is done, plug it in and see if it works.  If it does, put the
   cover on and have fun.  If it doesn't, check all connections.  When I first
   put this together, I accidently solder the +5 for the 74LS04 to the solder
   that is closer to the blue and violet connectors.  This happens to be the
   circuit for the buttons and whenever I pressed the buttons this line went
   low and shut off the 74LS04 thus stopping all input to the computer !!
 
   BE CAREFUL !! -- Shorts can damage your mouse interface !!!
 
 Here's a logic diagram :
 
 Connector                               Wire           Function
 ----------                              ----           --------
               |-\      |-\
 Yellow    ----|  >O----|  >O-----------Yellow          Vert. Mvmt. Pulse
               |-/      |-/
 
                        |-\
 Orange    -------------|  >O-----------Orange          Vert. Direction
                        |-/
 
               |-\      |-\
 Red       ----|  >O----|  >O-----------Red             Horiz. Mvmt. Pulse
               |-/      |-/                                 up
 
 Brown     -----------------------------Brown           Horiz. Direction
 
 Violet    -----------------------------Violet          +5 VDC
 
 Blue      -----------------------------Blue            Buttons (HI=up,LOW=dn)
 
 Grey      -----------------------------Grey            Logic Ground
 
 
 |-\
 |  >O  is 1/6 of the 74LS04 hex inverter.  The Yellow and Red are run through
 |-/       two gates so that they are buffered.  The Orange needed to be
           inverted so it only goes through one gate.  One gate is unused.
 
From caen!uakari.primate.wisc.edu!ames!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!news.dell.com!math.utexas.edu!ut-emx!ccwf.cc.utexas.edu Mon Aug 31 14:26:36 EDT 1992
Article: 41157 of comp.sys.apple2
Path: caen!uakari.primate.wisc.edu!ames!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!news.dell.com!math.utexas.edu!ut-emx!ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
From: foegelle@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Michael Foegelle)
Newsgroups: comp.sys.apple2
Subject: Atari 5200 Trak Ball modification
Message-ID: <78497@ut-emx.uucp>
Date: 27 Aug 92 15:42:25 GMT
Sender: news@ut-emx.uucp
Distribution: comp.sys.apple2
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Lines: 178

>From the volume of responses I have received following my mention of
converting an Atari 5200 trak-ball controller into a working track ball
for the //e (to be used with the //e mouse card) or (I assume) the //c,
here's the dope on how to make one.

For starters, where to get the controller itself...  I ordered mine
from:

   Alltronics
   2300 Zanker Road
   San Jose, CA 95131

   Phone:  (408) 943-9773
   FAX:    (408) 943-9776

It's an Atari Trak-Ball controller (model CX-53) for 12.95 + S&H, but
don't tell 'em how much you heard it was for unless they quote something
higher, because you might be able to get it for less.  (Me and my big
mouth, when I called I coulda saved, $2 if I'd have kept it shut!)

Okay, on to the modification:

If you pull the five phillips head screws from the bottom of the
cabinet, you'll be able to open it up easily.  Be careful when opening
the case.  If you do it while it is still upside down, the 'cue ball'
will remain in the opening and the two encoding wheels which the ball
sits on will fall out.  That's no big deal, but be careful not to damage
the wheels or lose the bearings.  If you flip the case upright and then
remove the top, the cueball should remain sitting on the wheels and
you'll be able to see just how everything is mounted and how it works.
(As well as how it has to go back together again!)

Now that you're inside, the first thing to do is remove the ball and the
encode wheels with the bearings and set them aside out of the way
somewhere so that they won't be damaged.  (It's probably a good idea to
balance the encoder wheels on one end so that you don't warp the wheels
themselves.)

Next, slide the cable connectors off of both the trak ball circuit board
and the button circuit board and remove the cable.  (You may want to
chop the connector off the end and use the cable to connect your
modified track ball/mouse, that's up to you.)

Next, remove these four chips (CD4538, CD4030, CD4011, and CD4013) from
the triangular shaped track ball circuit board by carefully prying them
out with a screwdriver.  (These are static sensitive chips, so if you
want to keep them for possibly use in the future, take steps to
eliminate static charge (like you would on your computer) and wrap them
carefully in tin foil or put them on an anti-static mat. Care should be
taken with the circuit board itself too to avoid zapping the one chip
you left in.)  If necessary, the circuit board may be removed from the
casing by carefully prying back the plastic finger holding the lower
left corner of the board down.  Be careful not to break the finger off.


     _____________
    | <12345>     |                                 KEY
    |          XX |                                 ---
    |          XX |                                 [chips]
    |          XX |                                 XXX - opto sensors
    |             |__________ <connector>
    |                        \__
    |                           \__
    |   [CD4538]   [CD4030]        \__
    |                                 \__
    |         _                          |
    |       _/ \_                        |
    |      /     \                       |
    |      \_   _/                       |__________
    |        \_/        [CA339]                     |
    |                          \          XXXXXXXX  |
    |   [CD4011]   [CD4013]     this one stays      |
    |                                               |
    |_______________________________________________|


The CA339 is a quad comparator which just amplifies the signal from the
opto sensors.  The next step is to just make the power connections and
the necessary connections to the output of the CA339.  My suggestion
would be to get a 14 pin dip header and use it to make the connections
so that you can always unplug the board without changing anything.  The
connections will be made in the socket labelled "CD4030" above.  Pin 1
is the lower left pin in the socket.  You'll be connecting to a male
DB-9 connector for the computer side:

                                             DB-9 connector
 14  13   12  11  10   9   8
 ----------------------------           -----------------------
|                            |          \  5   4   3   2   1  /
|    CD4030 socket           |           \                   /
|                            |            \   9   8   7   6 /
 ----------------------------               ----------------
  1   2    3   4   5   6   7


    CD4030 socket      Signal description      DB-9 mouse connector
    -------------      ------------------      --------------------
      pin #  7              Ground                 pin #  3
            14                +5V                         2
             1               Right                        5
             2                Left                        4
            12                 Up                         9
            13                Down                        8
        ------              Button                        7


 (Note:  Pins 4 and 5 of the five pin connector can also be used as the
power connectors, with pin 4 as +5V and pin 5 as ground.)

The only remaining connection is to make the button connection.  I used
the innermost red button as my mouse button, although you could use
either or both.  On the upper circuit board, pin 1 is the pin nearest to
the center of the circuit board.  Pin 3 should be connected to ground
and pin 2 is the button connection (connect it to pin 7 of the DB-9
connector).

That's it!  That should be everything needed to make the trak ball work
as a mouse on your //e.  Carefully snap the track ball circuit board
back into place if you removed it.  Make sure it is sitting properly on
the alignment pins and that the plastic clips are holding it down
firmly.  Then place the encoder wheel rollers into place, making sure
that the bearings are properly in place and that each wheel rides in the
slot in each opto-sensor.  Spin both making sure they spin freely.
(They should spin for up to ten seconds before stopping.) If the
rollers are placed properly, you may then set the track ball on top of
the mechanism so that it rests on the center of each roller and on the
third 'caster' bearing mounted on the plastic pole which sticks up
through the center of the circuit board.  Before closing the case you
will probably want to plug the trak ball into your computer and test it.
A short circuit of the power supply would be bad for the computer, but
any other bad connections wouldn't hurt anything other than possibly the
track ball circuit board itself, so you aren't likely to lose much even
if you screwed up the connections.  If the connections are all okay, it
should work fine at this point.  If so, just put the cover on the case,
flip it over and install the screws.

If there is a problem, double check your connections first. The only
other change that may be necessary would be if the LED's in the
opto-sensors aren't receiving enough current for them to operate
properly.  I had this problem with one of the sensors on mine.  The way
to correct the problem is to replace the current limiting resistor with
a smaller one (or put a smaller one in parallel).  I'd have to retrace
the circuitry, but I believe the limiting resistors for both sensors are
the two right beneath the horizontal (lower) opto-sensor. (There are
two vertical rows of three resistors; they're the top resistor in each
row.)  The current values are 230 ohms I believe, and I used a 100 ohm
one on the one I replaced and it all works fine.  Again, hopefully you
won't have to make this modification, but you never know.

Finally, if you really want to have this trak ball, but feel you just
aren't up to making the modifications yourself, I'll make this offer for
a limited time.  I will make the modifications for $25 + parts + S&H.
That will probably work out to $45-50 but I'll verify that it works
properly on my //e and make all necessary modifications.  If you're
interested, E-mail me at "foegelle@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu" to arrange it.

And just so that you have some idea what you're getting into if you've
never seen the Atari 5200 Trak-ball, it's a black case approximately 9
inches by 11 inches by 3 or 4 inches tall with a sloping face.  The trak
ball itself is a large (2.5-3 inch) ball in the center with two red
control buttons on either side (the inner one becomes the mouse button
with the above mods.).  Above each pair of control buttons is a rubber
numeric keypad laid out as a telephone keypad.  (These could be modified
to work with the numeric keypad input on the //e, but that's a subject
for a later project!)

Well, I hope that is enough to help you figure out how to make the
modification, 'cuz that's all I'm going to type!  Enjoy and good luck!

Michael Foegelle

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
   Michael Foegelle  |                    |   foegelle@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
     ____________    |     You want it    |   foegelle@utaphy.ph.utexas.edu
                     |                    |   GEnie:   M.FOEGELLE2
    University of    |        WHEN?       |   Wunderland BBS  (512) 472-0544
   Texas at Austin   |                    |   14.4kbaud, v.32/bis:  Sysop


